This is the start of our four-week summer holiday in Europe. We will be taking the ferry from Harwich again but decided to break the journey as it is such a long way. The added bonus of this plan was that we could meet up with Dan for a couple of hours at the J32 Shopping Outlet near Leeds on our way. It has been such a long time since we saw him - probably in May before they went on holiday to America. It was so nice to catch up with his news - he is always very busy! - and to spend time with him as he is such good company. We had lunch at Nando’s which set us up for the rest of our journey to Cambridge.
On the whole the traffic has been quieter than expected but we travelled down the A1 rather than the M1 which may have been why. The A1 isn’t the nicest of roads but I think it is less stressful and not so fast. We arrived at the site in Cambridge at about 5pm and quickly got set up. The weather has been glorious and very warm. We got set up and had a quick coffee before heading out for a walk to the shop for a couple of things. We don’t usually manage to get 10000 steps in on a travel day but we did today! It was 25º even in the early evening which we have not experienced over the last few weeks of rain.
After tea, we watched TV for a bit. Unlike our other long holidays, we don’t have much to binge watch as we seem to have caught up with everything but I’m sure we have plenty of stuff with us to keep us entertained.
Today we took the bus into Cambridge as we have never visited here before. The bus stops on the main road just outside of the camp site which is very handy. The journey takes about 20 minutes and takes you past the famous Papworth and Addenbrookes Hospitals.
We headed for the Cambridge Hop On Hop Off tour bus as this is a good way to learn about a city and to get your bearings. The buses were quiet so were able to sit up top and catch the breeze in the 27º heat. We passed many of the famous colleges - King’s, Queen’s, Emmanuel, Trinity and Magdalene to name a few. The commentary mentioned some of the well-known graduates including Samuel Pepys, Charles Babbage, Winston Churchill, Prince Edward, and film director, Sam Mendes. We passed the only American cemetery in the UK which marks the deaths of soldiers killed in the second world war. The site although situated in Britain is recognised as being built on American soil as a mark of respect.
There are many open spaces - including parks - around the city, and one in particular had an interesting football story. The current rules of football were developed by a group of teachers in Cambridge and adopted nationally to ensure consistency between teams. Until this time, each school or area had their own rules which resulted in much confusion. The size of the goal was taken from measurements between two particular trees in Parker’s Piece park, and is still in use today.
After our bus tour, we headed to a pub called ‘The Prince Regent’ for lunch as I had been given a voucher to use at this particular chain as a gift when I left work in February. To cut a long and boring story short, after traipsing around in the heat for about an hour, and visiting two pubs in the chain only to find out they could not provide their lunchtime menu as they did not have the ingredients (even cheese!) to make it, we ended up in Nando’s again! It is very unusual for us to eat out at all as we usually take something with us, but we were getting very hungry. After that we returned to the more central area of Cambridge for a bit of sight-seeing and to pick up an essential magnet for our board.
We headed back to the terminus to get a bus back to the site and then sat outside for a bit as it was so hot in the van when we returned. We ate tea later after our late lunch and then chilled for the rest of the evening.
We are only an hour and half away from our next stop at Brookcroft Farm ready for our ferry trip from Harwich to the Hook of Holland, so we visited the English Heritage site, Audley End House and Gardens today. Parking proved to be a bit of a problem as we were unable to get into the regular car park near the House as the historic archway was too narrow for motorhomes. I’m sure that normally, another car park, where there are no restrictions, could have been used however there was a Heritage Pop Concert taking place in the evening so this area was being used for their vehicles. After about half an hour of toing and froing, and wondering if were going to be able to use our pre-purchased tickets, the attendant at the Miniature Railway carpark nearby allowed us to park there. We were very conscious of the fact that the House was closing at 1.30pm due to the concert taking place and the need to close the site after visitors.
The House is magnificent and dates back to the Jacobean era when Thomas, Lord Audley converted the buildings of a 12th Century Benedictine monastery into a house. Between 1605 and 1614, Audley’s grandson Thomas Howard rebuilt the house to accommodate James I who visited in 1614.
Each house or castle we have visited has its own notable rooms or features. At Audley End it included the Coal Gallery which was situated on the second floor and added in the early 1760’s by Sir John Griffin Griffin. The area was fitted with two walk-in closets (toilets) where chamber pots could be emptied, bins for wood and coal, sinks for hot water and cupboards for storing candles and brooms. Tin baths were stored here, to be used as and when required in other parts of the house. It was unusual to find such a room inside where the main living areas were situated but it much have made life a little easier for the servants.
One other notable feature that we had not come across before were the ‘coffin stairs. These comprised of a staircase running from the top to the bottom of the house with a wooden framework running down the centre. The gap down the centre of the framework was designed so that a coffin could be taken down from any floor level within the house, using a rope hoist, rather than being carried down numerous stairs.
The Nursery had several rooms but one contained the original 1830’s wallpaper depicting trailing ivy leaves. Research by English Heritage revealed that much of the Nursery had been decorated using this pattern and the rest of the rooms have now been decorated in a reproduction wallpaper using this design.
Some of the grounds were out of use due the concert but we were still able to admire the lake and bridge installed and designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. It was very similar to that at Blenheim Palace which we visited a couple of years ago after the second lockdown (Covid).
Our journey to Harwich took us through many pretty villages with narrow roads. It seemed to take a long time to travel our last hour and a half to Brookcroft but the weather was good and the thatched cottages and scenery were lovely to see. We arrived at Brookcroft at about 16.30 and relaxed before having an early night in preparation for our early start to board the ferry to the Hook of Holland.
It was an early start this morning to leave for the ferry at 7.00am. We both slept quite well as we don’t usually do so when we know we have to be up to catch the ferry. The port was busy when we arrived and we were pulled over again to check we didn’t have any pets or people hidden in the van. Fortunately, they did not take any of our food which I was concerned about! The ferry was late in departing today due to a ‘sewage issue’, but we are quite happy to cope with the delay rather than that. We left about 40 minutes later than expected.
As usual we had a cabin with a window and we take plenty with us to keep ourselves occupied during the journey. The crossing was calm and the weather sunny - we have been very lucky with the weather when taking the ferry over from Harwich. We had a wander to the restaurant for our tea at about 2pm and that sets us up for the rest of the day. Prices continue to be reasonable on the ferry, and the portion sizes are really too big for me. I’m going to order a child’s meal on the way back.
We arrived at the Hook of Holland on time as the captain had made up the time lost before we left. We set off for our first night in Europe at Delftse Hout which is a familiar one for us now. We went out for a walk after getting set up for the evening, and are doing well to get some steps in on travel days. Tomorrow we are off to Belgium - neither of us have been before so this will be a new experience.
We left Delft at about 10.45 to begin our journey to our next site. We cannot get onto the next site until 16.00 so we are calling in to visit the Dutch city of Breda on the way down. We found the motorhome parking area quite easily next to the river Mark which runs through the centre of the town and then walked into the centre.
We weren’t sure what to expect as it was Sunday, and normally shops are closed across Europe, but it was a hive of activity particularly around the bars and restaurants. The town has some beautiful medieval buildings and a beautiful church - the Church of Our Lady. It has a magnificent spire added in 1702 which replaced the previous one built in 1547 after it burned in a fire.
There is a 12th century castle at Breda but it is not open to the public. It has a very important historic past though. It was extended in the 1500’s when a chapel was added, and it later became a military building again during William I of Orange’s battle with the Spanish. William III of England added to the castle again in the late 1600’s but did not live there. During the period of French occupation in the 18th century, the castle was a military barracks and military hospital.
William I of the Netherlands placed it at the disposal of the Royal Military Academy in 1826. Thomas Vincidor built three further wings and later King William II of the Netherlands built the fourth wing. Today cadets are awarded a bachelor's degree upon graduation and commissioned in the Royal Netherlands Army, the Royal Netherlands Air Force - in fact we spotted an aeroplane which is displayed within the grounds of the building.
Many of the shops in the central area were open and there was a huge mixture from well-known British chains such as Holland and Barrett, to more specialist and unique shops offering a wide range of clothing, housewares and gifts. The Dutch people are very creative in their design of products and buildings which add a bit more interest for the shopper. The shopping area was very varied from budget shops to department stores and boutiques.
We wandered around for a couple of hours and then went back the van for lunch before continuing our journey to Antwerp. We were diverted from our original SatNav route due to road closures and arrived at about 14.30. The site is neat and tidy with a toilet block, small bakery, reception area and all motorhome facilities. It is a perfect spot for accessing the waterbus, pedestrian tunnel and ferry to Antwerp city centre. There are plenty of places to walk nearby, including the marina, as well as local shops and restaurants. Tomorrow we will visit Antwerp to see what it has to offer.
Today we took the free ferry over the River Scheldt to the old town of Antwerp. There are three ways to cross the river - the ferry, the waterbus, and the pedestrian tunnel. The ferry takes approximately 4 minutes to cross the river and docks beside Het Steen, a 13th Century fortress which now houses the tourist information centre, and The Antwerp Story which tells the history of the city. We began our visit by visiting these to get our bearings.
Like many European cities, Antwerp was occupied during WW2 however many residents had fled and the Belgian Army were instructed to surrender. It was heavily bombed during the war and was targeted because of its port and also its airport, and the Jewish community were also persecuted by the Nazis.
We learned more about the history of Antwerp, and the fact that it is Europe’s second largest port next to Rotterdam even though it is about 55 miles from the North Sea. It is made up of nine districts, and is famous for its diamonds. You get a great sense of Antwerp being a vibrant and creative city today, with its mixture of old and new architecture, renowned artists such as Van Dyck and Rubens, as well as fashion and design, and music and the arts.
Today Antwerp has a huge chemical industry which includes research into sustainability, and finding solutions for solving environmental issues such as chemical water contamination. New architecture stands beside historical architecture, but there is evidence of the need to preserve the past and see its value in Antwerp’s evolution.
After visiting the museum, we walked around some of the streets in the older part of Antwerp. The spire of the Cathedral of Our Lady, started in 1352, dominates the skyline at 123m (404 ft). Several valuable Rubens paintings hang in the cathedral. Two were confiscated by Napoleon and taken to France, and were later returned in the 19th Century only to be removed again by the Imperial German Army in 1914 and taken to Berlin. They were returned in 1918. We were unable to visit today as there was not enough time but we plan to return.
The shopping areas were very busy but did not seem crowded as the streets are wide. You have to be very bike and scooter aware or you could cause an accident - pedestrians don’t seem to have much of a right of way! Many footpaths are taken up by café and restaurant tables so it is sometimes impossible not to walk on the cycle paths.
The weather has been a hot 27º so we decided to walk back to the site via the pedestrian tunnel called St. Anna’s Tunnel. Cyclists can also use the tunnel which was built in 1933. It was built to connect the newer districts on the left bank to the older part of the city on the right bank. Original wooden escalators continue to lead you down the 31.5 metres into the tunnel. It is 572 metres long and is very busy particularly with cyclists. It is covered in white ceramic tiles and does not feel claustrophobic at all. You can just about see the other end as you begin your walk along the tunnel.
We returned to the site and had our tea. Then, it was time to relax as we were tired after all of our walking in the warm sunshine. We are going into Antwerp city again tomorrow.
Today we took the free ferry across the river again and headed east along the riverside towards the Red Star Line Museum. Located in the original Red Star Shipping Company building, the museum tells the story of migration, immigration and emigration! From our earliest ancestors in Africa who began to migrate across Europe and Asia to today’s migrants who continue to head West for a better life, we learned that history has sadly not helped us to understand the plight of those who either have to or want to leave their country and seek a better life for themselves and their families. Nor has it changed our view of migrants which many people in the West still have little regard for, are suspicious of and do not regard them as having anything valuable to offer our society.
The museum tells the stories of Europeans who decided to leave their countries and seek a better life in America by boarding the Red Star Line ships. The port of Antwerp was the perfect location for the shipping line and for emigrants to board their ships to fulfil the employment needs in America and Canada. Between 1873 and 1935, almost three million people left for these countries with little more than a suitcase and the clothes they were standing up in.
Whole families left together but many men left alone to see their fortune and then send for their families to join them. The museum tells many personal stories about people seeking ways out of poverty during the Industrial Revolution when work became more scarce, and those who fled persecution and war in their own countries. Famous emigrants included Albert Einstein, a German Jew who faced persecution and violence due to his anti-Nazi views, and Israel (Irving) Berlin who fled Russia at the age of 5 with his parents and five siblings after Jews in Eastern Europe after their massacre was initiated by an organised group.
The stories were both sad and happy ones from families that were separated and never reunited to those who successfully moved their families to America and Canada and made a better life for themselves. It was interesting to listen to the accounts of people in their 80’s and 90’s as they recalled their own experiences as children travelling to a new country, and reflecting on their feelings of still feeling like outsiders, and that they did not really belong anywhere, which was very sad.
The museum itself was set out very well and there were lots of opportunities to read, watch and listen to information in English. There were audio and visual accounts, as well as display boards and artefacts to look at. We were also given a booklet at the ticket desk which gave more information where there was no English explanation. This was referenced on the display boards and was really useful. It was an excellent example of how to meet the needs of international visitors so that they can access the information - this has been an issue for us in other museums we have visited in Europe. We ended our visit by climbing to the top of the viewing platform which gave great views along the river towards the port, and of the Antwerp skyline.
We walked back along the river to get the free ferry back but were intrigued by a street market near Het Steen. We wandered along the stalls which sold a variety of food, clothing, ornaments, homeware, handbags, toys and jewellery. One stall was selling live small birds in cages such as budgies and canaries! Another seller at the end of the market was selling plants and was doing a roaring trade. The traders all wore some kind of traditional dress which was interesting - I can’t see this catching on at the Newcastle Quayside (unless it’s a Newcastle football shirt!).
We got the ferry back over the river and walked back to the site. The site appears to back onto a private club which was having a function. It was well under way by the time we got back at 6pm but the music volume level was ridiculously loud and intrusive. We closed all of our windows - which was not ideal as it was a very warm evening - and were told by the site staff that it would end at 10pm. It was so loud that we couldn’t listen to any television - I eventually put ear plugs in! It would certainly put us off staying here again as it is the last thing you want when you’re trying to relax on holiday. If we do, then we need to take a pitch nearer the Reception area as it was not as loud there. We learned that there will be a new camp site on the left bank next year so we may have to try that one next time.
Our journey from Antwerp to Heidelberg today was a long one - over 5 hours plus a couple of stops for lunch and a coffee. Roadworks around Antwerp have led to many exits and entrances to the main motorway to be closed so, after a bit of a diversion, we were taken under the river via the Kennedy Road tunnel. Traffic was busy but more so in the opposite direction to us!
After leaving Antwerp, the journey to Heidelberg was not too bad as the roads weren’t busy, and driving in Germany is much better than in the U.K. We encountered many road works on the A61 last year, and there may be more northbound, but many of these seem to have been completed this year.
We arrived in Heidelberg at about 5.15pm. It was extremely warm but we could see the cloud was thickening and the thunder was rumbling in the distance. Within half an hour of arriving we had a thunderstorm and heavy rain which cooled the air and was a bit of a relief. When there was a break in the rain, we walked through the underpass to the REWE supermarket which is only about ten minutes away. We picked up some groceries, returned to the van and had our tea.
There are many different boats that travel along the river Neckar and we plan to take the daytime river cruise whilst we are here. We are looking forward to a good night’s sleep and a lovely rest day in the sunshine tomorrow.
We had a rest day today after our long journey yesterday. We have such a lovely spot right next to the river Neckar and it is very peaceful here. The weather is hot and sunny - 31º.
We have spent the day relaxing, doing our own thing. Kevin always has plenty to watch on his laptop - films he’s downloaded or watching YouTube videos about various things. I brought our travel log up to date, and then spent some time dabbling with my watercolour paints that Mam and Dad bought me for Christmas. I’m never going to be a great artist but I thought it might be a nice hobby to have when we’re away. Knitting and sewing in the summer months when your hands are sweaty or covered in suncream isn’t really recommended! I’m just practising at the moment, trying out the different colours in my book as a reference. I have really enjoyed it - it’s a very mindful activity which is even more relaxing in such a beautiful location.
After lunch we went for a short walk along the river in the direction away from the centre of Heidelberg. We discovered the railway station was not too far away although the bus to the centre of Heidelberg stops directly outside of the campsite. There was a weir and lock with a pedestrian bridge over the river which is one of 18 weirs and locks built along the river Neckar in the early 1920’s between Mannheim to the west and Heilbronn to the east. This made it an efficient water route for all types of water craft. We saw pleasure boats as well as barges carrying cargo, and many people use the river for water activities including canoeing and paddleboarding. We crossed the river using the pedestrian bridge and found an Aldi supermarket not too far away which was useful to know about for future visits. After our walk, we headed back to the van as it was very hot and humid.
We spent the rest of the evening relaxing as it was just too hot to do anything but we enjoy our rest days - we are on holiday after all!
We took the bus into Heidelberg today as we had booked a 3 hour boat trip along the Neckar with Weisse Flotte cruises. The weather was glorious - bright blue, cloudless skies. We got seats on the open top deck and made sure we had plenty of suncream on. The trip included an audio commentary which was relayed in various languages including English so we learned a little bit more about the city. The trip takes you from a point just east of the historic bridge to Neckarsteinach where there are three castles on the banks of the river. We also got our first view of Heidelberg Castle which stands above the old town. It is quite magnificent standing on the Königstuhl hill overlooking the river.
The boat passed under the Karl Theodor bridge (old bridge) and sailed towards our first lock. The trip takes you past an old 12th Century monastery, Stift Neuburg, which is now used for spiritual retreats and has a small brewery. We also passed our own motorhome as we sailed past the campsite.
We made two stops on our journey and our first was at Neckargemund, close to the Dilsberg Fortress ruins which can be seen on top of the hillside. The river winds through the Neckartal-Odenwald Nature Park where we could see birds of prey circling high above the trees. There are two or three other campsites located along the route. The scenery was very pretty and the gentle breeze was very welcome in the heat of the day.
As we moved towards the final stop of the trip - Neckarsteinach - before returning to Heidelberg, a cluster of castles came into view, all dating back to between 1100 and 1230. The first is a narrow castle with round turrets built into the hillside rock and is called ‘Swallow’s Nest’ castle. It is the newest of the four. Hinterburg Castle ruins are situated on the hillside as the river direction turns and it is the oldest of the castles. The Mittelburg castle, the second oldest, is a medieval castle which is the most preserved and is now used for corporate events, weddings and other functions.
As we turned to return to Heidelberg, the sky was still cloudless and we had a peaceful cruise back. It was the perfect activity for such a hot and sunny day. We walked into the old town to visit the Tourist Information Centre. Kevin picked up the Heidelberg magnet from a little market stall and we went in search of an ice cream. Nearby, we discovered the funicular which we will take up to the castle when we come back tomorrow. We were finding the heat a bit too much so caught the bus back to the site for a nice long drink.
Today is our last day in Heidelberg and we are visiting the castle. The castle can be accessed via a funicular which was built in 1890. The earliest part of the castle dates back to 1214, and it is mainly a ruin but it covers a large area. Parts of the castle were rebuilt in the 17th and 18th Century but lighting strikes, wars and fires have left most of it in ruins. There are many signs of much needed restoration work which must be difficult given the castle’s location, and ensuring the safety of visitors must very costly. The views over Heidelberg from the castle walls are fantastic and you can see for miles. The remaining facades are very decorative and many figures are displayed which were created during the time of the German Renaissance period.
The Museum of Apothecary is housed in one section of the castle - Ottheinrichsbaus - which explains the history of apothecary, pharmaceuticals and the evolution of pharmacists as we know them. From the early grinding and pressing of plant roots, leaves and flowers to the discovery of scientific compounds, the museum explains how the knowledge of ailments and illnesses suffered by humans has changed over the centuries. From the first suggestions that illnesses were punishments send by gods to the scientist of the early 19th Century who discovered new chemical treatments such as antibiotics and insulin, the role of the pharmacist has been to be a trustworthy source of managing the potions and pills given to patients in the correct quantities and for the correct ailments.
The museum contained some interesting artefacts including details drawings of plants and their healing properties, tools used to cut, grind and store ingredients, as well as displays of a typical apothecary store which began by displaying remedies in jars to organising them in drawers, which they still do today.
The areas of the museum that are still in tact are only accessible via a guided tour which we did not realise when we booked our ticket, and there were none available at the time we visited as they had all been booked. A wedding was being held at the castle when we visited.
We took the stone steps down from the castle to the Old Town so that we could get a flavour of Heidelberg as a place. We visited the Evangelical church of the Holy Spirit. I lit candles there for Ged and Rob as I try to do this when we are on holiday. The church was not the most decorative we have visited but is was a very peaceful place. In 1693, all of the stained glass windows were destroyed in a fire, and there were no records of them. They were replaced but were again destroyed during the Second World War. Various artists were commissioned to replace them as recently as 1984 and some of the designs were controversial particularly those by German artist, Johannes Schreiter in 1977.
We then went for a wander through the streets of Heidelberg to look at the shops and buildings. It was nice to see some different street artists including a violinist and cellist, and an older gentleman singing ‘Stand by me’ simply accompanied by his own rhythmic playing of a cabasa. We visited a fabulous Christmas shop (the Germans know how to decorate a home at Christmas!) and picked up a decoration which was a little pair of ballet shoes for Aurora, and a treble clef for Naomi (You can’t go to a Christmas shop and not pick something for Naomi!). We made our way back to the bus stop and, after standing for a while, realised that the buses must have been diverted as none were passing in either direction. We headed back to the Old Town and realised that there was some kind of festival along the riverside which meant roads were closed to traffic. We finally got the bus home, picked up some provisions from the REWE shop near the campsite and headed back, weary with the heat, but having had a great day again.
Today is another big travel day as we are driving south of Munich towards the German/Austrian border where we will stay at Seimssee for the next five nights. The traffic was much quieter than usual as there were very few HGV’s on the road. In Germany and France, most supermarkets do not open on Sundays so no deliveries can be made. The journey was good overall with very little congestion. It was interesting to see that there are still some vast road works taking place where additional lanes are being added to the autobahns. We had one stop to have lunch but just kept going for the last couple of hours or so. As we got closer to the site, we began to see buildings that were more typical of the Alpine style with decorative wooden balconies and painted façades. We expect to see more of this in the small towns nearby.
We arrived at the site at about 4.30pm. When we booked, we had to choose a pitch so it was just a case of being shown where that was and getting set up. We have water, electric and waste water facilities on the pitch itself so this makes things a lot easier for Kevin. There is a little food van on the site selling bread and hot meals to campers until 7.30pm. The toilet/shower block is nice and clean but there is a charge for showers - 50c for 3 minutes of hot water. As we can top up water easily on the pitch, I will just have showers in the van. The nearest towns are too far to walk to but are within a fifteen-minute drive for shopping. There are many cycle paths nearby with views of the lake and surrounding countryside.
Our pitch was mainly in shade which was just as well in the 32º heat, and we can see the beautiful lake Seimssee ahead of us. There are lots of families here and the lake is a major attraction for adults and children alike. People have enjoyed swimming, sunbathing, canoeing and taking their own small boats. The number of people at the lake slowly declined as teatime approached and the little food van was very busy serving meals to campers.
As the sun began to set over the lake, we went out to take some photos. Everything was so calm and still and looked glorious in the setting sun. The Alps are still somewhat in the distance but the setting sun painted them in shades of pink and purple which was quite stunning. What a watercolour painting that would make! Tomorrow is a rest day for us after such a long journey.
We are having a much-needed rest day today after the last three days. The heat is making sightseeing more tiring and it is very humid. The day started off cooler than usual - in the early 20’s - but temperatures again started to climb into the 30’s in the early afternoon. The site is much quieter today - maybe some families were only here for the weekend - but it is very easy to chill when you’re sitting outside and you glance up occasionally at the calm waters of the lake under the sunny sky. We postponed our trip to the supermarket until tomorrow and will combine it with a visit to one of the local towns. We have a trip booked for Wednesday (our 37th wedding anniversary) and are looking forward to that too.
Today we drove to the town Wasserburg am Inn. It is built on a meander of the river Inn and has preserved many of it’s medieval buildings including churches, the town hall and castle. We parked up in the supermarket carpark (there is a Lidl and REWE at the same location) then walked into the town which took about 15 minutes. The temperature is up to 33º today and so sightseeing on foot is really tiring in the heat.
We started with a trip to the Tourist Information centre. The smaller towns in the eastern and southern parts of Germany have less information in English, and museums and other places of interest often don’t have guide books in languages other than German. This is the same in Wasserburg however we were given a map of the town together with some information in English relating to key buildings which were marked on the map. As you stroll around the town, it is like walking back in time as many of the original buildings still have medieval paintings and motifs on them. There are many individual shops, cafés and restaurants but they do not intrude on the overall look of the town, and I expect there are many regulations regarding this to ensure the town retains its historical character.
We used the map to locate areas of interest listed on the information we’d been given, and we found that many had information on the actual buildings which was also in English. St Jacob’s Parish Church was built in 1410 on the site of the first town church (1255) and it is currently undergoing some serious restoration. It is said that a seven-year-old Mozart played the organ for the first time here in 1763. It was impossible to see any of the church from the outside, until we walked up to the castle and were able to see the clock tower, as it is covered in polythene and scaffolding. We were able to go inside the church and it appeared to be very dark as the stained-glass windows were all covered internally again by polythene and scaffolding. There is a beautiful gold altar that must look stunning in the sunlight, and an ornate wooden pulpit with a staircase that wraps around one of the columns along the main aisle of the church. Despite the renovation work, it was a peaceful place to visit but it would be nice to return to see it restored.
After wandering around the local shops (we had to find a magnet and Kevin bought a new wallet), we walked up toward the castle which is not what you would expect a castle to look like. Public access is limited as much of it is now used as a rest home for the elderly. There is also a chapel on the site which dates back to the 15th Century. Being built on a meander with cliffs on the north and south sides, this was a good location for a castle. There are many historic buildings nearby including a large, corn-merchants building, and a medieval staircase. We wandered around the town looking at different buildings on the map, and then took a slow walk back to the van as it was getting too hot to walk around. We went to pick up groceries and then headed back to the campsite for a very late lunch, and in search of some much needed shade!
It is our 37th wedding anniversary today! We are driving to Prien to take the boat to Herrininsel to visit Herrenchiemsee Palace. Signs of human life on the island date back to prehistoric times, but the island name comes from the monastery that was founded on the island in the 7th Century. The nearby island, Fraueninsel, takes it’s name from the convent of nuns there. The abbey on Fraueninsel also dates back to the 7th Century.
We drove to Prien early so that we could get parked up for the day in the nearby carpark. The ticket office opened at 9.00am and we got on the 9.30am boat in beautiful sunshine.
Our interest in Herrenchiemsee Palace follows our visit to Neuschwanstein Castle, the Residenz in Munich, and Nymphenburg Palace, which are all linked to Ludwig II who was known as the Swan King. We have learned so much about him on our visits to Bavaria. Herreninsel was bought by Ludwig II in September 1873, and had planned to build a palace in homage to that in Versailles built by King Louis 1V of France. The plans initially began quite modestly with view to replicating certain rooms in Versailles, however they quickly developed into something on a much larger scale - something we have learned about Ludwig II is that he had a very creative mind and was obsessed with even the finest details of décor within his plans. Sadly, Ludwig II never saw the palace completed as he died in 1886. It is said to have cost more than Neuschwanstein and Linderhof combined. I also read that it was perhaps never Ludwig II intention to complete the palace at Herrenchiemsee as there were only plans for the rooms that were in fact completed. It is believed that the size of the palace was to impress visitors as they arrived and that there was never an intention to furnish all of the rooms.
We began our visit by admiring the elaborate fountains at the from on the palace. Inside, we went into the Ludwig II Museum, which gave more information about his life and included artefacts from various buildings and events. It included the first edition bedroom furniture from Lindehof, as well as pieces from the Résidenz in Munich which were removed and stored prior to the Second World War. Other pieces include two exquisite robes made for Ludwig II marriage to Duchess Sophie Charlotte however Ludwig broke off the engagement a few weeks before the wedding was to take place, after it was postponed twice.
There is a room dedicated to Ludwig II and his relationship with Richard Wagner, and it contains many models of sets from his theatrical performances. Of course, Wagner was also an inspiration for the building and decoration of Neuschwanstein. We knew from our visit there that Ludwig II had plans to build a second castle on the top of a mountain where a ruin stood - Falkenstein. The museum contains a model of the castle that was planned however these plans were abandoned after his death. The plans however were extremely elaborate including very detailed plans of the patterns for floor tiles in each room and decorative features.
Other artefacts including crockery painting designs, paintings and sketches, and photographs of the Royal Winter Garden that used to be situated on the roof of The Résidenz building were also on show. This was further evidence of the imaginative and creative brain of Ludwig II who had a vision for even the smallest details when planning his palaces and castles.
We had booked a tour of the state rooms which were breathtaking - we could not take photos though as this was not permitted. According to our tour guide, he lived only 10 days in the palace before his death. The entrance and state staircase were decorated with figurines in alcoves, brightly coloured stucco marble and friezes. This followed the original design at Versailles. The staircase led to the royal bodyguard’s chamber decorated with military helmets and busts of French guards of the ‘Sun King’. This led to an antechamber with a large but unfinished cabinet - there were blank surfaces which would probably have been covered with paintings. The purpose of the cabinet is unknown but may have been to hold musical instruments. The ceiling was beautifully decorated with a painted mural.
A second antechamber led to the King’s bedchamber which was probably the most stunning room we have ever seen in a palace or castle - it was breathtaking! There was so much gold in the room which was very striking with the cobalt blue drapes and other furnishings - Ludwig’s favourite colour. A huge chandelier hung from ceiling and, at the foot of the bed, stood an ornate gold stand on which stood a cobalt blue glass ball. Candles could be placed inside at night, bathing the bedchamber in a blue light which represented the blue light of the moon. Above was a dark blue painted ceiling covered in gold stars representing the universe. The room must have looked spectacular in candlelight. It was sad to learn that it was never used. a spiral staircase behind a hidden door to the left of the bed led down to a bathing area but it was unlike any bathing area you would expect - we saw later on the tour that the bath was the size of a plunge pool which he would have been able to swim in. A further room called the Council Chamber was decorated in the same colours as the Kings Bedchamber and was also very ornate.
The Hall of Mirrors was created using a scale model of the original in Versailles however at 98m it is 15m longer and, again, it was an opulent and stunning. Thirty-three chandeliers and fifty-two candelabras hold 7000 candles. Ludvig II did not plan for the use of any other form of lighting as he wanted to create the same visual effect as that in the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles during the reign of the ‘Sun King’. We visited other rooms on the tour which were equally impressive but there is very little opportunity to take everything in on a single tour as they are timed, and there is always another group tour in both the room before and after you.
We were taken to the unfinished Northern Staircase where the guide explained that the other unfinished rooms in the palace looked similar. The bare, handmade bricks revealed the intricate, architectural planning of the building, showing where statuettes and paintings would be places in alcoves and arched brick frames in the completed palace. After visiting the King’s bathroom and his dressing room, the tour ended and we returned to the Museum to finish looking around.
We then had a walk around the grounds of the palace. It was extremely hot again today so it gets difficult to concentrate on reading information in the heat. We visited the Augustinian Monastery which is also known as the ‘Island Cathedral’. A monastery was first established on the island in the early 1100’s and was dissolved in 1803. King Ludwig II bought Herreninsel 70 years later, and part of the monastery was used as his private quarters, and he stayed here whenever he visited the island to oversee the progress of the building of the palace. There is a beautifully painted room called the garden room which overlooks the gardens below, and has beautiful painted murals of the Roman emperors over all of the walls and ceilings. The monastery also housed several exhibitions including arts and one all about the development of the German Constitution following the Second World War. By this time, we began to get information overload, especially in the heat, so decided to get the boat back to Prien and have some lunch.
We returned to the site for lunch as we were only 20 minutes away. We treated ourselves to a lovely Magnum ice-cream after our tea as it was our anniversary - we know how to live! The site has an ice-cream vending machine which we have never seen before anywhere. It was another hot and sticky night - thank goodness for the fan blowing some coolish air around.
We enjoyed a later morning today after the warm and sticky night which makes it hard to get to sleep. The weather will be changing over the next few days so it will be a relief to have some cooler weather, and even a bit of rain! Today we are returning to Prien and taking the boat to the other island on Chiemsee - Fraueninsel. It is home to a 7th Century Benedictine abbey which is currently home to 33 nuns, and has a population of no more than 300. Chiemsee was very busy with boats today - perhaps this was because we were heading out later than yesterday. The trip takes about 25 minutes as it is further away than Herrininsel.
After we arrived, we visited the abbey shop which sells liquers and marzipan products made by the nuns themselves. We also bought some of their gingerbread. Outside, the abbey garden was bursting with colour from a variety of flowers including roses, chrysanthemums, lupins and many others.
We took a walk around this little island which attracts many tourists. There are many places to relax and have something to eat or drink. There is also a pottery on the island. The little fishermen’s cottages each have their own jetty though it must take some getting used to having all of the visitors trooping past their homes every day. I suppose many will rely on it to make a living.
It is not possible to visit the abbey itself but we were able to look inside St. Michael’s Chapel which is about 1200 years old however the foundations of the chapel are much older. As you enter through the archway into the church, the stone step is shaped like an arc where it has become worn as people have walked over it. We were not permitted to take photos in the chapel itself but it was a very peaceful place to sit and admire the historic paintings and stained glass and gold altar.
After spending a couple of hours on the island, we headed back to the van, and then to the campsite. Later in the evening we experienced a terrific lightning storm. The sheet lightning flashes were constant, and it went on for about two hours. There was very little thunder initially but this started as the rain came. The scariest part was the way the wind picked up, and we could hear people out checking their awnings were secure by knocking in the pegs. I managed to get some sleep as I felt really tired with the heat today but Kevin didn’t settle as quickly. Still, we have cooler weather to come over the next few days as we head for Austria.
We are travelling to Austria for the first time today. We got our first glimpse of the Alps last year on our visit to Neuschwanstein Castle but today we will get up closer as we head for our campsite at Lofer.
The journey has been pretty straightforward from Chiemsee. As we got closer to the Austrian border, we agreed that this was probably our most dramatically scenic trip due to the mountain height and their close proximity to the road. It is very different to the Highlands of Scotland as there are more pine trees on the lower peaks, and the landscape is therefore softened by the vegetation, however the higher peaks that appear further back are very rugged. Ben Nevis stands at 1344 ft but the height of mountains in the Alps far exceed that. The colour of the higher peaks is different too as the rock is mainly limestone and slate as opposed to the darker volcanic rock of the Highlands, and you can see all the different striations in the sunlight.
Camping Grubhof is a picture postcard site surrounded by mountains, with the crystal-clear Saalach river running through it. It was quite busy when we arrived and most pitches were full. Reception staff speak English and provided us with information about the area. We were each given a free Salzburger Saalachtal Card which will give us free transport and entry to visitor attractions, including free travel by bus to Salzburg!
We got set up on our pitch which was very spacious, and it had water and waste facilities which makes things a lot easier for Kevin. The shower block was just a short walk away and the one nearest to us had family shower rooms which were like bathrooms with toilet facilities too. There is also a restaurant, shop, Wellness centre and bike hire facility on the site.
There is a lot to do locally including plenty of walks in the mountains, and a cable car in Lofer which takes you up the mountainside. We went for a short walk near the site just to get our bearings, and had a peak at the Schloss Grubhof which is close to the site and is now a hotel. The weather for this week is not as good as we’ve had so far but we will make the most of our days here - it is a very beautiful place.
After a bit of a lazy morning, we went for a walk into Lofer. We walked over the bridge located on the site which takes you to the other side of the river, and walked into the town. The area is so pretty - we felt like we were walking in a story book. The mountains are dotted with Alpine houses that we typically imagine when thinking of Austria and Switzerland. They have dark-coloured apex wooden roofs and upper balconies, and window boxes full of flowers. The mountain skyline changes as you turn each corner. What a fantastic journey to work! I wonder if the people who live here stop noticing it after a while.
On our way to the Lofer, we noticed that there are a number of supermarkets too, including a Spar! We found out where we could get the cable car using our passes. The area around the cable car entrance contains many eating places as well as sportswear shops which must be very popular during the skiing season. As it was Saturday afternoon, the town was very quiet and many shops were closed.
The town of Lofer is a pretty one with many historic buildings. Most have the traditional wooden balconies but many also have painted friezes or motifs on the walls. Early settlements date back to the 7th Century, and many buildings of the 18th and early 19th Century replaced older buildings on the site which dated back to the 15th and 16th Centuries. Many were used by traders such as blacksmiths, saddlers, strap-makers and stove fitters. A hydroelectric waterwheel, which diverted water from the fast-flowing subsidiary stream called Loferbach into a man-made wooded channel called The Mühlbach (Mill Stream), was first built in the late 1400’s by the owners of saws and mills, blacksmiths and leather makers. The system for producing hydroelectric power was improved and redesigned until 1899 and it is still operating today.
We wandered back to the site via a different route, and the sun was hotter than expected. When we returned to the site, we spent some time enjoying the rest of the sunshine by sitting outside. Storm clouds began to build at about 5.30pm, and the wind picked up. It is all a little eerie when this happens as the weather changes so quickly. It is clear that most of the Germans are familiar with these changes, and know what to expect, as they start to prepare for it coming by ‘battening down the hatches’ - securing awnings, putting away chairs and tables etc. It was nice to be cosy in the van and watching the changing sky above the mountains.
Today the weather was better than expected so we went for a drive to visit Vorderkasserklam and Lamprechtshöhle - a mountain gorge, and a cave. There was ample parking at both sites for the motorhome which may have been because it was quieter than usual due to the weather forecast. We FaceTimed Jonny, Holly and Aurora from the carpark. Aurora was a bit shy when she saw us on the screen but she soon started chatting. We caught up with their news about the house, and Buttons had had his operation and seems to have coped well with it. We really miss seeing them when we’re away for so long - Aurora is changing by the minute!
After our call, we put on our walking boots and set off for the Gorge. To reach the Vorderkasserklam, you need to take a 2.5km walk through the nature park. There are good footpaths and a road to the starting point where there is another carpark but this is not suitable for motorhomes. The area is so pretty, and there is a Stone Age adventure trail for children with playgrounds, water pump, slide and small pools with rafts along the way.
The Gorge began to form by glaciers at the end of the Ice Age more than 12000 years ago. Today, the Vorderkaser Gorge is 400 m long, 80 m deep, 80 cm narrow at the bottom and up to 6 m wide at the top. It first became accessible to the public in 1882. A total of 51 footbridges with 35 stairs and 373 steps lead through the Vorderkaserklamm. Water still works its way through the rock and erodes it by about 6mm each year.
The walk is a strenuous one as it is quite a steep climb to the entrance - we were glad not to be doing it in a 32 degree heat! The rain had made the wooden steps quite wet but, as it was not busy, there was no pressure to try and hurry through, and we took it at our own pace. As you along the first wooden platform and look up, you can see a huge boulder wedged between the two sides of the Gorge above. I wonder how may years of erosion it will take until this comes crashing down? These natural forms in the landscape are always fascinating to see. The sheer height above and depth below are just unbelievable as you make your way through. The staircases and pathways are well-maintained and seem very safe and sturdy as you climb up the stairs, and up out of the Gorge.
It started to rain on our walk out of the Gorge and back to the van so we had lunch before driving on the Cave. The water in the rivers and streams is so clear and, even in the rain, the scenery is lovely.
We parked up for our visit to Lamprechtshöhle, and it is a short walk to the cave entrance. It is the largest passage caves in the world, stretching more than 60km. Another entrance to the cave was found by Polish climbers at a height of 2178 feet, in 1993.
We were surprised not to have to wear hard hats to go into the cave as some parts were quite low. The walkways and stairs are very accessible, and the cave itself is huge. It is really interesting to visit as each on is unique in it’s own way. One thing that was very noticeable here was the lack of stalagmites and stalactites so very little water must seem into the cave. The cave is well lit so you feel quite safe inside (until you see the signs that say, if the lights turn red, you have to leave the cave immediately!). Again, there are lots of steps to climb but it was quiet so we could take our time. On our way down, we met a couple from Manchester who were staying on the same site as us, and who had travelled via Harwich. We did not get much change to chat on the stairs but may see them again on the site when we’re here. There are very few English tourists so you get used to hearing German being spoken!
We headed back to the site as the rain was getting heavier, and we pottered on until teatime then watched a bit of TV. We had planned to go to Salzburg tomorrow but, as the forecast is for heavy rain all day, we are postponing our visit until later in the week. Dan and Naomi are in Mallorca at the minute, and there has been a big tropical storm there, but we managed to get in touch with them and they are both fine.
We have had really heavy rain through the night and it has continued all day. Dan got in touch to say things were ok but they hadn’t ventured out of their apartment. Hopefully they will get their flight ok tomorrow as it seems to be Palma that has taken the brunt of the storm and they are on the north-eastern coast at Cala Millor.
We have had a pottering day again today - Kevin with Home Assistant, and me with our travel journal and family tree. Kevin popped out for some fresh bread buns from the shop this morning, and it was very wet! It has hammered down all day and we had a rumble of thunder that was so loud we felt it through our seats in the van! Later in the evening, when it was dark, we went out for a quick walk on the site and we were shocked at the height of the river. It had changed from a calm, slow moving body of water to a raging torrent in just a day. We read on the website for the cave that it had been closed to visitors today due to flooding - it floods near the entrance apparently where the path gently runs down into the main body of the cave. We were lucky to get the opportunity to go there yesterday before the weather changed.
The rain has eased a lot today, and the showers are much lighter and less frequent. We decided to go for a walk into Lofer for a few groceries, and also to check where the bus stop was for our a trip to Salzburg tomorrow. The opening hours for shops in the town is limited, as it seems to be in many of the smaller towns in Germany and Austria. Most shops open between 10am-12 noon, then close again until 3pm. We thought it was quieter on our earlier visit because it was a Saturday but it seems that it was the regular closing times for lunch.
We decided to take the cable car - Almbalm 1 and 2 - to the top of the mountains at Lofer today. Our Saalachtal Pass gives us free access to the cable car which is another bonus. The clouds had begun to break up as we climbed higher and we were able to see the top of the mountains on the first section of the trip up at Loderbichl, which is 1000m above sea level. A second cable car takes you higher again to the green slopes, and the main ski resort called Almenwelt Lofer. The views over Lofer from the cable cars was brilliant - we could see the river (which was very full after the all of the rain yesterday) and the campsite in the distance. The cable car takes you over the top of very tall pine trees which gives a whole new perspective of a forest when looking down the trees from the top. The rain had also created a large waterfall which we could see clearly on our way up.
There are a number of different hiking trails from the cable car station starting with easy routes of 1.5km to more challenging climbs of 7.5 km. The first thing you hear when get out of the cable car is the sound of bells in the distance. There are many cattle roaming over the pastures and each one has a large bell tied around their neck. The sound echoes around the mountainside and is quite magical. It was much cooler up at the top too. You can clearly see where the skiing and snowboarding runs are, and the ski lifts.
We hadn’t really gone prepared for anything other than a shorter walk today as we weren’t sure what the weather would be like at the top, but the clouds had parted and we were able to take in the views. The short walk we took was steep, and hard on the legs, but we got there. We had taken a biscuit and a drink, and we found a seat to sit on for a while. The scene was ever-changing as the clouds floated over the mountain tops. It is easy to see how climbers can become disorientated if they don’t take the right equipment with them because it must be impossible to see much when the cloud comes down on the mountain top.
We spent a couple of hours at the top then took the two different cable cars back to the bottom. We walked back to the site via the supermarket. We are doing a lot of walking this holiday! Even on our driving days we have managed to get out for a walk. There are times when we could have used the bikes as some of the cycle paths have been pretty flat on the whole, but it’s less of a concern not having to take them, and worry about security if we have to park up anywhere.
It was very overcast and a little drizzly when we woke up this morning but we decided we would still go ahead with our plans to visit Salzburg today. We didn’t manage to get there last year because of the heavy rain, so we are determined to get there for at least one day this time, especially as we have the Saalachtal Pass which gives us free travel to the city - about an hour and a half away. We headed out for the 10.30am bus as we knew they ran every hour. What we didn’t realise was that the bus terminated at Unken every other hour so the 10.30am wouldn’t get us to Salzburg. As we had to wait another hour for the next bus, we walked into Lofer to pick up a magnet for our collection, and we got on the bus there.
The bus starts at Zell am See where there is also a railway station, another place we can visit in the future. The bus journey to Salzburg is quite a pleasant one as it takes you along the river initially, and the next big town it stops at is Bad Reichenhall, which is probably a place to visit on a future journey. It is interesting how the German/Austria border weaves through this area as we went from Austria into Germany and back again. Again, we spotted waterfalls running down the mountains following the rain yesterday. The houses are mostly typical Austrian-style homes with apex roofs and wooden balconies. The river was very high and fast flowing along our journey. As you enter Salzburg, you pass the airport and drive under the runway!
We got off the bus at Mirabelplatz, near the Mirabel Palace and Gardens. The Palace is not open to the public but you can visit the Marble Hall which is mainly used for concerts and private functions today. Leopold, Wolfgang and his sister Nannerl Mozart all played in the Marble Hall. The staircase up to the hall is very impressive, and it makes you wonder what the Palace is like inside. I learned later that the Palace is mainly used as a municipal building now and is the home of the mayor. The gardens were used in ‘The Sound of Music’ film with Julie Andrews. We walked through the gardens past the fountains towards Mozart’s birthplace where there is a museum. we crossed the Markartsteg Bridge - also known as ‘Lovers Bridge’ which has thousands of locks attached to it, left there by couples young and not so young! From here, you get your first glimpse of the Old Town with it’s spires and towers overlooked by the towering fortress high on the Festungsberg mountain at 506 metres. Even on a grey day, the Old Town looks intriguing, and very beautiful.
Our first stop was Mozart’s ‘Geburtshaus’ or birth house. The museum is housed within the actual 3rd floor apartment where Mozart was born in 1756, and where he lived with his parents and sister until he was 26. We downloaded the museum app so that we could get information about the family, the rooms, and the items on display as we walked around. We visited Leopold Mozart’s birthplace in Augsburg last year, and our visit here today confirmed that the Mozart family seemed to have been a very close and loving family. Portraits of the Mozart family are not austere in any way, and the buildings feel homely even when presented as museums. The experience is also enhanced by Mozart’s wonderful music - Leopold, Wolfgang and his sister Nannerl were all very accomplished and creative composers and musicians who left a priceless legacy for us to enjoy today. It was good to see a wide range of ages visiting the museum, and learning about the music and the composer. We have visited the birthplaces of Bach and Beethoven too in recent years, and there really is something special about walking through the rooms of the places where they learned to play and compose their music.
Last year we had booked dinner and a Mozart concert at the Höhensalzburg Fortress but didn’t get to go after we cancelled our Salzburg trip, so I was interested to see where it would have been. A funicular ride takes you up to the fortress, and it is only then that you discover what a large area is covers. Parts of the fortress date back to 1077 when it was built to protect the prince bishops and the principality being attacked. Further changes were made until the early 1500’s and the fortress looks very similar today as it did then. In 1892 is had already began to attract tourists.
There are many viewpoints overlooking the city from the fortifications and we wish the sky had been bluer as it was quite grey today, but the fortress is very impressive nevertheless. Within the fortress buildings are smaller museums, restaurants and a chapel. The armoury museum was very interactive and gave information about how gunpowder was made, the evolution of armour and armoury, as well as the history of the fortress and changes to the fortifications over time. St. George’s chapel contains some very old paintings and artefacts - it makes you wonder how they have survived over time. The highlight of the trip was to visit the Princes’ Hall, the Golden Chamber and the Golden Hall. The décor was just beautiful. It was the Golden Hall where we would have experienced the Mozart concert last year and what a stunning room it was, painted in ochre, cobalt blue and gold with leaded windows overlooking the Old Town. There was plenty of information in English on interactive boards within these rooms. We are benefiting from the fact that tourist numbers are less than they usually are as we are have taken our holiday later and schools are returning after the summer break. We were able to walk around at leisure and take photos which was good.
After our visit to the fortress, we returned to Mozartplatz via the funicular and took a walk back across the bridge towards the railway station where we were getting on the bus. The journey didn’t seem to take as long going back to Lofer, and it is picturesque. We are going to return to Salzburg tomorrow.
We left the campsite and caught the 9.30am but to Salzburg today. When we arrived, we went straight to the cathedral as we wanted to book tickets for the English tour in the afternoon. We then headed back over the River Salz to visit Mozart Residence, an eight bedroomed apartment where the family had lived between 1773 to 1787- also known as the ‘Dance Master’s House’. Again we used the museum app to listen to music and information about the Mozart family as we walked through the rooms. Listening to the music certainly creates an unique atmosphere as you walk around looking at manuscripts, instruments, letters and portraits of the family. Perhaps the saddest painting of all is of the whole family and hangs in the largest room where the family played music and games together. It is a portrait of Leopold, Wolfgang and Nannerl and their mother, Anna Maria. Anna Maria’s portrait is painted within a picture frame hanging behind the other members of the family as she had died the year before the painting was completed. When you learn about the family, you can imagine that her death was devastating for the family.
After visiting the museum, we walked through the historic streets of the Old Town towards Mozartplatz to visit the Christmas Museum. One thing that is very clear when you travel through Germany and Austria is how important Christmas is, and they really know how to make it special. I wanted to visit this museum, and wasn’t really sure what to expect, but it is interesting to find out about Christmas customs in other countries. The museum is above Café Glockenspiel and, although it is not huge, it is packed with artefacts collected by Ursula Kloiber over a period of 50 years. We learned about Krampus, a devil-like creature, who would appear to children who were naughty - some of the puppets and figures of him were quite scary and included masks worn by adults in processions and events. We also learned that it was common to use ornaments of military objects such as submarines and missiles as Christmas decorations during the First World War which contradicted the traditional message of the season! The wooden decorations such as the nutcrackers and Christmas scenes were really beautifully made - this is an area that the Germans and Austrians clearly excel in as the workmanship is so precise. There were advent calendars (no chocolate in sight!), and beautifully made Christmas cards and decorations on display. The older, artificial Christmas trees had branches that were much less dense than those on modern trees, but you could really see the decorations in all of their glory which I liked very much.
We had our packed lunch in Mozartplatz and watched the ponies and traps taking tourists around the square and onto the town. We then walked to the cathedral for our tour. The tour guide was very informative, telling us about the history of the cathedral building both inside and outside. It’s amazing what you learn, and what you notice that you would not otherwise have seen without the knowledge of a tour guide. We heard the same story that we have heard many times before about the damage done to the cathedral during a bombing raid in 1944 when the dome and parts of the sanctuary were damaged. It was finally restored in 1959 using the original plans. It was difficult to see the exterior clearly as there had been a theatre production outside during the Salzburg Festival and the seating area and stage were still being dismantled. Inside there was a font in three sections, each of which came from a different era. The base dates back to 1200 and has four lions at each corner. It was a relic from the old basilica built in the early Middle Ages. The font bowl dates back to the Gothic 14th Century and Mozart was baptised here. The guide explained that it is a very important part of the cathedral as many of the Salzburg residents can trace their family history through the records of baptisms in this same font for centuries. We spent some time in the cathedral after our tour ended. The size of the dome is just overwhelming at 75 metres high (the Angel of the North is 20 metres high in comparison) and it is beautifully decorated. We went down to the crypt where the bishops’ tombs are situated. It was different to crypts we have visited before in that the tombs were all the same and the fronts were set into the wall rather than being tombs that were horizontal with stone carvings of the bishops on the top. The blank ones must be very disconcerting for the current and future bishops! The crypt also contained an art installation, which is part of Salzburg’s Art in Public Space to highlight its’ self-image as a city of culture. The installation, called ‘Vanitas’, comprises 12 small figures cut out of steel, each with a candle in front to create a shadow on the wall behind. An audio recording of a speaking clock is played repeatedly. It is a modern creation of ‘Danse Macabre’ where skeletons lead others on a procession to the grave … a nice thought when you’re on holiday!
After spending some time looking at the cathedral, we went for a walk around the city to take in the atmosphere of Salzburg. The blue skies started to appear in the afternoon, and it was warmer too. We got ourselves a little tub of lovely ice-cream to wander along the river with, then we walked to the bus stop to get our bus home to the site. It was another lovely day in Salzburg, and we have enjoyed learning more about this city.